Friday, November 23, 2012

Sauna #2: Hermanni
















I almost missed it, hawk-eyed though I was, perched in the #6 tram. Hämeentie Street plays cute little games with it's address numbers – the left and right sides don't keep pace, and are happy to skip a decade or 2 on a whim. I'd almost begun thinking I'd gone too far, when I saw a little sign, shining through the rainy gloom, from the corner of a large apartment block.

Ducking around back I found that magical door named Sauna, and headed down to the basement level, and a hallway that would have been at home in any midcentury school building. A smiling lady in a marquee-booth between women's and men's doors later, I was in the locker room and on my own for the next 2 hours. (Being alone, I took the liberty of taking pictures, which I somehow always feel hesitant about in bathhouses.)



Hermanni Sauna is what I imagine any neighborhood bath could be like; comfortable and straightforward, not leaning in any particular direction. A clean, well-used, commonly-loved bath. The showering room is only for showering, the drying and dressing room for exactly what it says. Not much room for socializing or luxuriating, high function-to-form ratio.

The stove room is similarly simple, wood panels and wood benches, a lovely room long enough to feel a real heat differential from door-end to stove-end. The first public place here I've seen where the low bench could really be for sitting, maybe a nod to a multigenerational (multitemperational?) clientele. The stove is a monsterous thing; a cylinder of stones a solid 4 feet tall, caged by steel mesh. Through the gaps I could see long loops of heating element glowing orange. For all that it seemed a fairly timid stove, giving mild and even heat. Id guess somewhere between 70-80? (There was just a thermometer-shaped clean patch on the wall.) Throwing a ladle of water on it (really nice round-belly ladles!) didn't have a strong effect. The stove always stopped sizzling before any wave of heat rolled toward me, and the wave was short-lived. Smelled of hot metal and rainy asphalt. The heat was easy to spend long minutes in, easy to leave and return to, easy to tell when I was finished.

Sauna Hermanni -- Neighborhood bathhouse.